Trad climbing sling lengths reddit. Extra long extension or anchors.

Trad climbing sling lengths reddit Maybe this is a stupid question, but I couldn't see anything regarding this in the FAQ and multiple trad guides I've seen. As the climbing is usually well below limit and pitchs in the 40-60m range I usually extend all placements just to reduce potential for rope drag. Not that you can't do it, but you will be limited to only a couple routes, so don't get the same exposure that you would want. I climb in the Gunks where there is a fair mix of tree anchors, bolted anchors, and gear anchors. If you feel safe taking lead falls on cams (BD 0. If multipitch, those are high profile pieces that I would want on my rack and not wasted on the anchor. I use a 240 centimeter sling for trad anchors and it works for many different types of anchors as well as being lighter than the same amount of cord. I would not recommend buying dogbones if you are going to be climbing trad in the near future. 6 draws and 6 shoulder length slings is pretty standard. Middle Rear (5th loop): Bought my Petzl Aquila specifically for this loop for trad climbing. From what I've read they are all great cams but they all have some small differences: BD Z4s: Rigid flex stem :) Good range for > 0. Basically, you want all flop, no tension when the rope goes through. Whether one uses the climbing rope itself or a dedicated length of cord is a personal choice and also depends on the circumstances. I'm looking at a 10mm thick 60/100cm long sling. When I’m cragging, I will carry about 4-6 quickdraws and 6-8 alpine draws to extend placements. Alpine climbs, I always bring 60cm slings and a few 120s. What I carry when ice climbing, cragging, multpitch climbing, trad climbing, etc are all different. Keeps the front 4 loops clear for cams/nuts and slings while I climb. On longish trad routes or multipitch I usually do both and split it pretty even between over-the-shoulder nylon slings with a wiregate each and the rest as dyneema alpine draws. Need quick equalization between two pieces? Take that sling and make a sliding X. g. are all fair game here. These are for anchors. On the down this is used to extend my rappel. The 8. Climbing hard pitches over 70m in length is silly because you end up with so much drag or gear you have to place. This is my preferred method. I carry 21' of 7mm cord because i feel it can handle all of these applications and gives me the best options for extending belays, finding comfortable stances, etc. there's a lot of information in the stickied post on this sub but standard rack is doubles . Carrying the right length of webbing for emergency bails and rappels during multi-pitch trad climbing is important for your safety and flexibility in dealing with unexpected situations. And yes, you can tie knots in it in and no it won't break (for any normal anchor building application). Hi all, I’m fairly new to trad climbing and particularly inexperienced when building anchors. Equalization is a myth - especially dynamic I am not doing much trad climbing, mostly sport, and the quad will be used to set up top rope anchors. I'm a wuss with nerve injury, I sew shit up, so even on a 100' pitch I'll have 10 draws on me. Usually bring 8-10 alpine shoulder length draws, 3 double length slings with carabiners over the shoulder ( for extension, anchor building, slinging shit, and rap tether), and often like 4 regular lightweight sport draws. In a pinch, you can always put two single length slings together. Probably overkill especially if you're carrying a cordalette and won't need slings at the anchor. Uneven leg lengths should be adjusted using as much low-stretch material as possible, a doubled or tripled Spectra/Dyneema sling being fairly low stretch I’ve never understood why everyone seems to place a cam then clips the draw to the cam sling rather than just preload say a bunch of double length slings with one biner to the racking biner and essentially lightening the rack and making it easier/more efficient to clip and continue climbing. Quickdraws for trad and ice climbing should have wiregate carabiners and lightweight slings. They are heavy, but burly. 3 to 3, DMM wallnuts #1-11, and 8 60cm slings and 2 120cm slings. Mostly it's 8 or so alpines (60 CM slings like yours) and another 3 or 4 double length slings over my shoulder and snapped under the arm with a single or double carabiner, depending on how I think they'll be used. If there is not good beta for the route than bring 1 draw for every 5m on the longest pitch plus a few extras. Pretty light and plenty of length. If you want a full set of light trad/alpine sling- and quickdraws for cheap I warmly recommend looking for sales of rack packs of light biners (CAMP NANO, Edelrid 19G etc), 60cm dyneema slings and 17cm Petzl Ange S/L or BD OZ May 18, 2021 · This is another area in which trad climbing requires compromises and good judgment, but luckily extension is intuitive once you get the hang of it. The force is distributed over the length of the sling/cord, so the longer the cord the more it can withstand. I've been trawling the internet for reviews and tests and most I could find were on OutdoorGearLab and UK Climbing Forums from some years ago. -quad length sling. Another option would be to use 2 120cm slings or a whole loop of old-ish climbing rope. Reply The rope should be fine unless you are climbing the full length of the rope and don't have an extra length to make the anchor. The difference in service between Metolius and BD is huge. To make matters more complicated, slings fill many more roles than one on a typical trad climb. Apr 10, 2020 · I do like having 12cm though as I prefer them for sport climbing and don't have two sets of draws. 5mm tech cord), a quadruple-length sling (240cm), or two 120cm slings. The clipping feel is incredible. Factors like the type of climbing, the length and type of route, the rock and character of the climbing area and your personal climbing style all play a role in how you set up your rack. As the title suggests, as someone who's looking to start building a rack, I'm curious as to whether or not long time trad climbers replace every single sling in their kit every few years due to age. All in all the draw weighs in at 60 grams. I never REALLY trusted my gear until I started falling on it. Make sure to properly tighten your slipknots. 4 cm), 16" (40. The more of a crack climb it is, the less extension you need as you can just clip straight into the cams. Just totally absurd and your video reminded me of those 3 double length slings. 17K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. You can get trad draws in various lengths, nice 25cm long ones are better than alpine draws unless you want to extend. Jul 31, 2018 · Double or triple length slings has been go my go-to multipitch setup for 95% of gear anchors in the US for a while now. it's dangerous. Also, try to rack gear on your harness as you are cleaning in the same way that you would rack it when you are leading. and over the years have also seen many sport climbers bring a couple 60cm (and even longer sometimes??) alpine draws for their projects (difficult clips, minimising rope drag 30 meters seems like a lot of material for an anchor considering most ropes for climbing are 60-70m. Aug 18, 2019 · The double-length sling, also known as “shoulder length,” is far and away the most common length, and makes up the majority of the slings on pretty much every traditional climber's rack we know. I think you've got enough singles for most things. eg. For long, traversing routes I will take the whole kit and kaboodle. Adjama Is my go to as well. You can easily store this system on your harness. I've started carrying a giant loop of Dyneema it's like 4x length sling basically. Mar 13, 2024 · Bring at least six single-length slings total, and up to twice that for complex terrain with lengthy pitches, or on long routes if an unplanned retreat seems possible. They allow two different options for extension, ~20cm or 60cm. I tend to prefer the friends for the reasons you've mentioned. On the up, it can be used to extend. Its jus so easy to go "clip-clip-clip-PullDown-MasterpointKnot-Done" and I always carry a few extra double length slings in case of something like having to build a four or five piece anchor. Lengths: 12" (25. Double lengths can always be used in shorter configurations when needed. it depends on where you're climbing. I have done many normal anchors, some anchors to threes, but never before with trad gear. In a girth hitch they were like 300,000ish pounds. I would get 6x sling draws, cheapest and lightest you can find, 6x wiregate quickdraws, lightest and cheapest you can find, and 6x sport quickdraws with beefy dogbones and solid Five to ten shoulder slings for extending pieces (24 inch/60cm length is most common) Two or three double shoulder length slings, useful for building anchors on bolts (48 inch/120cm) A few free non-locking carabiners for extending pieces and other things; One or two large locking carabiners for the anchor masterpoint Left Rear: alpine draws and maybe a double length runner for super extended placements. A 240cm is huge but can get you out of some stupid shit. Rope is dynamic but a factor two on a short length is still going to be uncomfortable. (Like 1/2lb). A basic trad rack might include 12 single-length slings, 4 to 6 double-length slings and 2 triples (or 2 cordelettes) for the anchors. Posted by u/baffled88 - 6 votes and 15 comments Hm, I find in trad climbing that if the good gear placements are any significant distance away from each other that it's not really adequate to just have slings (even double length slings). You can also use them on natural features like trees, threads, and chickenheads. The slings they had were these specialty endless slings made of Kevlar in some fancy higher denier nylon. For alpine routes, I generelly have more of them alpine draws. They were sold out on nylon slings, so i bought a dyneema sling. I am a fan of Sterling power cord after only one climb. If multipitch or belaying from above I would use two pieces and a sling just for speed to get my belayer climbing quicker but to each their own on 2 vs 3 pieces. In my opinion the extendable sling doesn't often offer enough extension to avoid using/carrying draws and n most cases, but will create an added margin of safety by allowing you to extend to avoid a feature that might cause the draw to unclip or lever over an edge. If 1/2lb makes it breaks your climb and you're not climbing 5. I've never seen anybody preclip gear to slings, bandolier style or with quick/alpine draws. Additionally, I have seen some say that prusiks should be 5-6' in length and other say you should always have at least one prusik that is 10-11' in length. Extra long extension or anchors. More if the route wanders. 4 small lockers So $800 added onto your sport gear of draws, belay device, harness, shoes, chalkbag. This will keep the sling full strength and provide extra protection at the thumb I have a double rack of cams, one set friends, one set C4s. It would eat up the slings and make them less accessible for other pro if all of the nuts aren't needed, but slings don't weigh anything, so rack a few more. How many cams and alpine qd depends on how hard the climb would be, but general scrambling with some small pitch climbing around 4 cams and 6 qd, but I' 8 shoulder lengths (2 with light weight lockers), 2-4 dbl. It depends on the situation. ) 29 votes, 54 comments. -Prussik cord with a locker. When I started trad climbing I simply bought 60cm dyneema sling and converted my sport quickdraw into extendable. I would have used threes, but didnt have any static rope with me this time. Does that only apply to when it can be shock loaded? My extended rappel setup is as follows: Halve the sling through the belay loop on the harness 2) Tie a knot, half, 8, whatever in the middle When cleaning shoulder/double-shoulder length slings, always sling them the same way (over the same shoulder) in order to make the transition smoother without a clusterfuck of slings to sort out. oojfcus jrq wzxxp hrsblz jmnz rdqvb jcownw gsmzn evxjy ntmx eotolupt mhldjx tas jgoq hpyyre